Products

   In the late 20-th a new epoch in the pencil’s history began. It stopped to be only a writing instrument, its applications became wider.
Wooden cosmetic pencils for brows were the first followed by wooden pencils for eyes (kajal, liner). In 1931 Schwan-STABILO launched a French Manicure wooden pencil (nail white pencil). Lipliners became popular only about 40 years ago. In the early 70's Schwan-STABILO devloped different, new production methods and so the term "pencil" became more general. Among these production methods are for example the pro-molded technology and direct molded technology. This production process enabled Schwan-STABILO to produce softer leads with a softer and smoother application, new types of casings, absolutely new products, all united by a new idea – a pencil idea.
A little bit on technology.

   All the materials and ingredients for a cosmetic pencil should be in strict compliance with strong requirements. Here everything is of great importance: from selected ingredients to every technological operation. It’s worth to say that for such simple and ordinary product as pencil a great labour input and high technological production is required. But there is one question, that is very interesting for all of us from childhood. How does the lead occur in the wooden casing?
    We requested Mr. Nils Mazgareanu, Area Sales Director of Schwan-STABILO Cosmetics GmbH&co.KG, to answer this question.
    “Everything starts from the lead. All the necessary ingredients like wax, oil, pigments are being mixed in accordance with the texture/formula. Then this bulk is to be properly intermixed and under heavy pressure sent to a special device with a small hole (lead’s diameter). As an outcome we have a wet lead, that is further to be dried and being cut to certain lengthers according to the total pencil lengh. After that, when the lead is ready it is put into a wooden casing. On a wooden palette several grooves are being made. In each groove a lead is being placed. After that the wood is covered by a glue layer. Certainly, it’s necessary to understand, that the glue we use is not the same as a usual one. The glue we are using as well as the rest materials for cosmetic pencils production is to be in compliance with strong requirements. Glue ingredients are to be absolutely safe to human health and not to enter any reaction with other compounds. The wooden palette with a glue layer is covered by another one with the same grooves. After gluing, the whole construction is being cut into several parts. Thus, we got several semi-finished pencils. Then, they are being processed, colored and sharpened. The technology described is only for wooden pencils. But as you know, today we produce not only wooden pencils but also pencils in plastic casing. In its turn, they could be also subdivided into two groups: pencils in plastic casing, that could be sharpened, and mechanical liners with a simple twist that pushes up the lead. For those pencils we use another technology – direct moulding.”
    Mostly often they use for a pencil in wooden casing, Californian cedar as this type of wood has unique qualities: high moisture resistance and required hardness. Also sometimes another wood is used: Canadian cedar or linden (SSC is using mainly Californian cedar wood, maybe other companies are using other wood). As the lead base they use a mixture of oils and waxes. Some other manufacturers use also mineral oils or such mineral waxes as ceresin or paraffin. This raw material is cheap enough and accessible. But high-level products demand other ingredients as plant oils (palm, jojoba, coconut) and plant waxes (Carnuba and Candelilla). This raw material needs special production and storage conditions and ensures very high quality of the end products and their absolutely safe application. When they use in the lead Carnuba and Candelilla waxes, they strength thermo stability of the pencils and provide long lasting to the contour line. A combination of plant oils such as jojoba, coconut, palm and castor helps to moisture the skin, makes it softer and smoother. Even more, the oil adds brightness and reachness to the shade. A combination of beeswax and silicones adds elasticity to the lead and ensures an ideal contour line.
It is necessary to mention separately on silicones. Mainly silicones secure long-lasting and water-proof effects in colour cosmetics products.
    Very often they add to pencil’s texture some ingredients for skin care to secure double function: colour & care. Among these ingredients might be: aloe extract, that helps to abirritate and stimulate cell regeneration process; allantoin, evening primrose oil, grape seed oil, calendula, vitamines or UV-filters (titanium dioxide), that prevent skin from drying and aging.
    List of ingredients in pencils for skin treatment and care is even more complicated; it might iclude: hyaluronic acid, tiger gras, jojoba oil, argan oil, salicylic acid, myrrh, bisabolol, aloe vera and others.
Lead’s pigments and colour-stuff are also to be compliance with strong requirements. It is due to the fact that pencil’s lead contacts mucous membrane. Major manufacturers prefer to use only natural ingredients like ferrous or manganese oxides.
    In today’s colour cosmetic a pencil might be used not only for make-up. There are cosmetic pencils for skin treatment and care. F.e. acne medication pencil, anti-pipmle, anti-wrinkle and even anti-aging. A pencil itself is also chaging, its application becomes wider. Today you can create your make-up either gloss or mat. The texture formulars might be long-lasting and waterproof, creamy or hard. Very often they finish cosmetic pencils with different end-caps: eye foam applicator, lip brush or special round brush for eyelashes.
    Every year companies specialized on cosmetic pencils production invest millions of dollars into development of new concepts, textures, technology, packaging and design. It’s difficult to foresee what else might be created. But the development and innovation process is a continuous one. It is obvious that a pencil in plastic casing has more possibilities for fantasy & creation. The manufacturers could experiment a lot on new forms and mechanisms.
    Some of the producers consider multi-functional products as long-term. It is easy to explain. Our life style is speeding up, women prefer products in compact, universal and comfortable packaging. With a lipstick and liner in a single pencil they can make a contour and add a lipstick. Eye shadows in pencil will never be spilled in a handbag. “Three-in-one” – to save means and money. But other manufacturers object that by stating that a universal product will never be the same as a specially developed one for a certain application. Only the time will show who is right, though it seems that the second view is more convincing.
    But for sure we can state that a lady will always love usual cosmetic pencils in spite of any fashionable trends or original cosmetic products. Because only with a cosmetic pencil she can easily make her look expressive and attractive. During many coming years an ordinary pencil in the wooden casing will be always required.